He charges £350 for his services – but there is no shortage of people waving their cheque books and credit cards at him. Jane Hall jumps the queue and has an audience with the current British Hairdresser of the Year, Andrew Barton. 
THERE are certain people and situations that are best avoided. You know the kind; years later the memory still leaves you squirming with embarrassment. Like discovering you’ve just walked down the street with your skirt tucked in your knickers. Or finding yourself in the company of the current British Hairdresser of the Year when your tresses are well past their cut-by date and the sunkissed look you have been trying to cultivate all summer has decided to pack its bags and head for warmer climes. Andrew Barton flicks his eyes over my dishevelled locks. I feel like a miscreant awaiting sentence from a crusty old judge. Will it be five years hard labour or time for the executioner to sharpen his scissors? Andrew, his mouth set in a hard line as he studies my head, is making me wait for his verdict. The boy from the Barnsley council estate who learnt his trade in a traditional no-nonsense Yorkshire salon where discipline, perfection and client satisfaction were the mantra and shoe and nail inspections for staff a daily ritual, doesn’t believe in diving in before he’s weighed up all the options. When his pronouncement comes I’m taken aback. He hasn’t gone for the jugular as I expected. It’s more conciliation than wholesale slaughter. “Your hairstyle is basically OK,” he says with a smile. “It’s the right one for you and I wouldn’t change much. But it does need a trim around the ears to allow your hair’s natural wave to come through. “Colourwise, you do need a bit of a boost. Red hair fades with age, but it’s still a good colour. You just need something to give your hair a natural lift – and cover the few greys that are coming.” Ouch. The sting in the tail. I don’t need reminding I’m no longer 21. But it’s good to know I’m not living in the past either with regards to my hairstyle. As Andrew tells me: “One of the biggest mistakes people make is hanging on to a hairstyle that might not be flattering any more and is not up to date. “Often they get stuck in a rut and have the same style for decades even though fashion – and indeed their hair – has changed. “Sometimes as women age they think they have got to have their hair cut short, but in fact most women should have it longer as it is softer. It’s almost like ‘hair comformists’ – people go for certain styles like rites of passage. “That comes back to the importance of a consultation. In a way, the last thing a stylist will look at is the hair – we look at the body shape, face shape, profile, all in pursuit of that unique style for that person.” People – including an impressive list of celebrities – are queuing up to hear these words of wisdom straight from Andrew’s mouth at Saks’ flagship London salon in trendy Covent Garden where he is based. There are currently 300 people on the waiting list and his next free appointment isn’t until spring 2008. His expertise doesn’t come cheap, however; a consultation and cut with the current darling of the British hairdressing scene costs an eye-watering £350. I start to sweat if I’m charged more than £35. I’d expect gold-plated scissors and champagne in place of the normally dire instant coffee for that price. Andrew – who has teased Penny Lancaster’s hair, primped Naomi Watts’, styled Keira Knightley’s and was responsible for turning Robbie Williams from mousy to blonde when he left Take That – is keen to emphasise it’s not only the rich and famous who seek him out. “People think I only do celebrities or magazine and TV work, like Channel 4’s 10 Years Younger (he’s the in-house stylist for the programme). But I get women from all walks of life coming to me for make-over advice who will then go back to their own regular cutter. The power of a good haircut can’t be underestimated.” Viewers of 10 Years Younger will attest to the truth of this. Victims are treated to a full make-over, including cosmetic work and a new wardrobe, in a bid to strip away the years and make themselves look younger. But it’s often not until Andrew weaves his magic that the real difference becomes clear and the gasps of admiration begin. Small wonder then that women of all ages were clamouring to meet Andrew when he scheduled a visit to Saks’ Market Street salon in Newcastle in his professional role as international creative director of the Darlington founded and based franchise chain. There are 140 Saks salons nationwide and Andrew – who joined the group a decade ago – is the man responsible for creating images, seasonal collections and the company’s signature hairdressing techniques. One of the criteria for him winning the British Hairdresser of the Year was the contribution he has made to hairdressing in a career that has spanned nearly 25 years and taken him from Barnsley to Australia and back to the epicentre of the hairdressing world, London, in his pursuit of excellence. He won the British Hairdresser accolade on his fifth nomination, and says he feels “overwhelmed.” Some competitors have been nominated 10 or 11 times and have yet to pick up the coveted title. “Being crowned the British Hairdresser of the Year has to be the highlight of my career. But beyond the exhilaration and joy I realise the huge responsibility the title carries with it.” Like dispensing his direct but sound advice to the ordinary woman in the street on how to look good. The long lens of the paparazzi tells us that without help even the world’s beautiful people can have bad hair days. And we know who makes them look good. The likes of top British stylists Andrew Barton, Trevor Sorbie, Charles Worthington and Nicky Clarke. For a handsome but not unaffordable price (given what some women are prepared to pay for designer clothes and make-up in a bid to look special), Andrew offers us mere mortals the chance to buy into that celebrity culture. Whoever does that to you has to be a star. Saks, Market Street, Newcastle, (0191) 261-2989. --------------------------------------------------------- Andrew's tips on keeping your hair looking fabulous Have a hair consultation before getting it cut. “I know a lot of salons don’t offer consultations but it’s worth getting one done, especially if you are thinking of finding a new hairdresser. They should be free, they should last between five and 10 minutes, there should be no obligation for you to get your hair cut and it is a great opportunity for you to find out what a stylist would do with your hair. “Visit three or four salons and find someone you feel comfortable with.” Invest in a quality haircut. “If the price being charged is cheap, then you can guess that the quality will be cheap too. In this business, you really do get what you pay for. A good haircut starts at around £30. If you get change from a fiver, forget it. And make sure you get your hair cut every six to eight weeks. Remember, hair is the one item of clothing you never take off.” Use the right products. “I feel for the shopper who spends her time in the supermarket looking at shelf after shelf of hair care products trying to find the right one and ending up with something that matches her bathroom decor rather than her hair type. If you want proper hair care advice, go to a salon.” Use the right appliances. “The tools and appliances you use are important. Quite often women get their hairstyle wrong by using the wrong brushes. If you want volume, for example, then you should use a round bristle brush to give lift. If you want a flat look, then you need a paddle brush. When you’re at the salon, look at what your stylist uses on you – that is a good indication of what you should be using at home. “And remember that when you change your hairstyle, you should change the brushes you use too.” Get a blow-drying lesson. “Many salons offer blow-drying lessons where you can come in with your own hairdryer, equipment and tools and find out how you should be using them. At Saks we don’t so much teach you as ask you to show us how you would dry it Get advice before colouring your hair. “Be very careful of home hair colours. Most of the colour mistakes we see at salons happen to people who colour at home. Most salons will have a stylist skilled in spotting your eye and skin tones and can suggest colours you had never thought about before that could be really flattering for you. “For example, when we age, we tend to think we need to go lighter but that is not always the case. It is personal, and what works for one person won’t work for another, so ask for advice. That’s not what you’ve got in a box from the chemist. Even if you get the professional advice and then go and buy it from the chemist, at least you have had that option of advice.” Don’t have the same style for years. “As a woman ages, one of the biggest mistakes she can make is holding on to the same hairstyle. Your face and shape change, and what suited you as a 20-year-old may not suit you as a 40-year-old. An old hairstyle, like old clothes, also dates you. Just as fashion changes, so do hairstyles. “It comes back to the importance of a consultation.” Get rid of grey. “Grey hair doesn’t work for most women; it ends up making them look older. I believe most women will benefit from having colour in their hair. There is really no such thing as a grey hair, they are white, colourless. But it is the mixture of white and darker hairs that makes it come across as grey. Colour adds life and vitality to a person. Grey is dull. “Only very occasionally will I meet a person for whom grey works. But it depends on their skin colour and the colour of their eyes.” Don’t be embarrassed about being inspired by celebrities. “There is nothing wrong with liking a celebrity hairstyle. It was interesting to see the reaction when Victoria Beckham had all her hair cut off. It created a massive surge in our salon. “But don’t aim to become a mini-me. A good stylist won’t copy but will tweak it to suit you.” Watch what you eat. “Diet is an important factor when it comes to healthy hair. The first place that your body will start to take essential nutrients from if it needs it is your hair, skin and nails. What we put into our bodies makes a difference. It is helpful to eat a good, balanced diet and have fish oil as it adds proteins and gives hair more strength.” | 
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