LISA JONES takes a trip to Ireland and bypasses Dublin for the less well-known destination of Galway City . . . THERE’S a lot more to Ireland beyond the bars of Dublin for someone out on the exploration trail. Try going west for a wilder slice of life. The unofficial capital is Galway City, which lies around 130 miles from Dublin and around two hours’ drive away. It’s the perfect getaway for anyone after a warm welcome. We flew to Dublin and drove across, enjoying the countryside on the way to our weekend destination. The slower speed limit and monotonously straight roads made for slow going, necessitating lots of stops for caffeine. The journey was interesting though, allowing us to get a slice of life in Ireland, listening to local radio, passing hundreds of tractors and meeting people when we stopped. We also stopped in the historic town of Athlone, which straddles the famous Shannon River and has a fort. We sat on the banks, enjoying a sarnie as a man took his greyhound for a swim. In Galway, we stayed at the ultra-chic House Hotel in the harbour district. It’s a stone’s throw from a string of vibrant bars and restaurants and the regenerated harbour area. Yet, despite being at the heart of buzzing nightlife, this boutique hotel, encircled by busy roads, is a haven of peace and quiet. The modern decor creates a calm atmosphere and, after you’re greeted by the reception staff, the hotel opens onto a large lobby stuffed with opulent armchairs and artworks. In our room, the bed was made up with pristine, soft linen and, overall, it was of a high standard. A two-course meal with two bottles of wine in the barn-sized restaurant set us back £50, but it was beautifully cooked and worth splashing out on. The hotel doesn’t have its own car park but has an arrangement with one nearby, so make sure you find out where it is before you get there, because you’re not able to stop outside! It’s a small inconvenience, and one worth knowing at the start. A special mention has to go to the hotel’s breakfast in bed . . . which was just divine. There are masses of things to do in Galway — dubbed the “city of the tribes” — which is bursting at the seams with culture, history and shops, and we barely scratched this buzzing destination’s surface. Galway is on the doorstep of a Gaeltacht — an Irish-speaking area — and the language is visible on the city streets, with bilingual signage displayed on shops and road signs. The Gaelic-speaking Aran Islands are a short ferry trip away from the port of Rossaveal in Galway Bay. After a bus trip to the port, we sailed to Inis Mor, the largest of the three islands, with Aran Direct. It was packed with ancient buildings, traditional cottages, a seal colony, breathtaking beaches and the odd friendly donkey. We hired bikes for £7 each to get around the island, but you can also reach the main attractions by minibus or pony and trap, if you don’t feel like exerting yourself. The island has breathtaking scenery and ruins, including the famous Dun Aonghasa ring fort. Some of this ancient site has fallen away into the sea, leaving a 91m (300ft) drop into the waves . . . the last stop on the way to America! It’s a shame we only had the day there, as there was so much to see. But being in the fresh air and free-wheeling the bike downhill to meet the crystal blue waters of one beach was like something out of a Famous Five adventure. I even managed to stay upright as I waved to a farmer while whooping my head off. I would like to say we went back to the hotel for lashings of ginger beer . . . but it would be a lie. On the way back to Dublin we stopped off for lunch in a place called Enfield, a small town in County Meath off the main N4 motorway. There, we found that Flattery’s Bar was a gem of a place, serving simple seasonal food which Gordon Ramsay would be proud of. Pah! to the Little Chefs, which pepper the UK . . . this is proper nosh in chic surroundings largely for the use of local customers. We had every intention of popping into Dublin city for a spot of shopping but, timewise, this proved to be unrealistic. So, we’re just going to have to go back over the water for a second helping of Irish hospitality. And, from our experience, half the beauty of being in Ireland is the people. They were so genuinely warm and friendly that we actually had withdrawal symptoms when we got home. 5 things to do VISIT Monroe Tavern for live music every night and Gaelic football on the telly. GO to the Spiddal Craft Centre, where local craftspeople churn out pottery, candles and jewellery. You may be able to pick up a bargain. POP into Ti Na Nog Bar, even if it’s just to see the giant aquarium behind the bar. CLIMB a few steps to Dun Arann Lighthouse and Signal Tower in Inis Mor. DRIVE to Connemara National Park for 2000 hectares of scenery rich in wildlife. Fact file LISA and her partner flew from Cardiff to Dublin with Aer Arann, which cost around £79 return, including taxes. Visit www.aerarann.ie TO get to Galway they hired a car from Europcar at the airport, which cost around £22 euro a day. Visit www.europcar.ie THE HOUSE HOTEL on Spanish Parade in Galway City costs from £93 a night. FOR details on the House Hotel visit www.thehousehotel.ie, or call +353 (91) 538-900. To book a ferry to the Aran Isles visit www.arandirect.com For more information visit www.discoverireland.com | 
