KEITH GREGSON finds there’s more to Gothenburg in Sweden than its famous festive markets IT takes a great deal of courage to head up your tourist drive with the catchphrase “The Christmas City”, but that is exactly what Sweden’s second city Gothenburg — or Gotenborg — has done. I was determined to see whether this claim stands up to examination as I arrived to spend a couple of December days touring the city with a group of Press colleagues. I have to say that it does and the reason is summed up in the single, simple word . . . tradition. This is not, I hasten to add, the tradition created by the world of international commerce, but that developed in Sweden over the centuries, with youth and family as a central focus. Even a cursory glance shows notable differences between a Gothenburg Christmas and what remains of the traditional British Yuletide. Christmas Eve, for example, supersedes Christmas Day in terms of family gatherings, festive meals and the giving of presents. In addition, December 13 has a significance not recognised generally in Britain. In Sweden this is the day dedicated to the festival of Lucia, the Saint of Light, and we were fortunate enough to be in Gothenburg to participate in the celebrations. For weeks before the big day, seven young ladies had been battling it out to be chosen as the annual “Lucia” and we were there as the seven were reduced to the lucky one. The selection was made at the city’s amusement park, the Liseberg. A hive of activity in the summer months, the Liseberg also has a certain charm in December when it is bedecked with lights . . . dominated by a giant tower consisting of some five million lightbulbs. My personal Liseberg highlight was time spent in the sub-zero Ice Bar drinking a vodka-based cocktail from an ice glass while dressed like an extra from a nuclear thriller. The drink itself was both welcome and warming. From the Liseberg we moved to the Vasa Church where it was standing room only for the annual Lucia concert. All in our group were pleasantly surprised by the entertainment value here. The Lucia choir — the seven girls plus three young men — joined the city’s gospel choir in song and past Lucias sang solos. The Christmas-related music, both ancient and modern, was top drawer and all agreed that the solo artists would have knocked spots of most of the British X Factor contestants. The annual concert is a must for any visitor with a musical bent but book early as tickets are at a premium. Also make time to see the free Christmas Show of Moving Images displayed on the front wall of the City Art Museum at the head of the main avenue. Very colourful and clever stuff indeed. Our hosts made sure that we were given an insight into their Christmas meal or Julboard. For this experience, we were transported to the magnificent 18th-century Rada Manor, which is situated beside a lake a few minutes out of the city centre. The Julboard traditionally consists of hundreds of dishes. Fortunately you do not have them placed in front of you one at a time and eating is carried out buffet style. We were advised to begin with herring — available in a number of different succulent sauces — then, to follow, some full and meaty Swedish salmon followed by a selection of hot and cold meats including tangy spiced Swedish meatballs. All this was washed down with sweet dark Christmas ale and a choice of potato schnapps or akvavit, some flavoured, some not. The meal was top-notch and I left the restaurant contented but not totally bloated . . . a rare event after a Christmas meal in the UK! Like many major European cities in recent years, Gothenburg in December is awash with Christmas markets and stalls. While some of the produce is international and run-of the-mill, attractive local gifts can also be purchased. I managed to lay my hands on some traditional Christmas decorations made of straw and personal presents cleverly created from Swedish pine. I also enjoyed a trip around the city’s antique market — a permanent fixture — and was thrilled to come home with a real bargain. A few coppers got me a colourful old postcard of North East anti-hero Andy Capp with the accompanying text, appropriately, in Swedish. All in all, Gothenburg stands up fairly well to being dubbed “The Christmas City” but I must admit to being equally persuaded towards other possibilities. The seaside and summertime islands are minutes away from the city centre and a brief bus trip we made there left me wanting to explore further, at a slightly warmer time of year. Also, a short journey inland opens possibilities for trekking and canoeing and the thought of a combination of city, sea and wilderness in the same holiday is one I’ve now put by for the future. TRY Christmas Lunch at Rada Manor where staff, surroundings and food all score highly. You can generally eat well in Gothenburg without breaking the bank. BUY tickets for the Lucia Concert on December 12 at the Vasa Church. LOOK at the Christmas Moving Images Display, best seen early evening, at the Art Museum, Avenyn. WARM up with a cocktail at the Ice Bar inside the Liseberg Pleasure Grounds. THINK late spring/early summer for a visit. A mix of town, country and seaside may make a longer trip worthwhile. FOR more information about the city and area around it, visit the websites www.gothenburg.com and www.west-sweden.com KEITH stayed at the recently refurbished Elite Park Avenue Hotel which stands on the main avenue in the heart of the cultural part of the city. The rooms were very comfortable and well appointed and the most parts of the city were within walking distance. See www.elite.se KEITH’S flight to Gothenburg was with FlyMe from London Stansted, after a Newcastle to Stansted shuttle flight. Flights take about an hour and a half and are followed by a short journey by bus into the city. | 
