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It's an old hand at good food

Jun 2 2006

By Jennifer Bradbury, The Evening Chronicle

 

The Victoria Bar and Kitchen
Kells Lane
Low Fell
Gateshead
Tel: (0191) 487 1650

The Victoria Bar and Kitchen

For those people who've discovered this bar and restaurant, they'll back me up when I say it's a little treasure. What can be more comforting than sinking into a warm, red leather sofa, glass in hand, at the end of a hard day at the office?

That's the sort of place the Victoria is. Dress up or dress down, you'll be made welcome.

It's an old pub and mine hosts have built on this appeal with a collection of ornaments and curios that just add to the atmosphere. In some areas of the bar the flooring is stone, in others wood and in others carpet. Plush leather sofas mix with covered stools. In the non-smoking restaurant, netting is strung across the ceiling and boasts an array of interesting objects, from sheets of music to violins. But that's just the start. The whole place, bar and restaurant, is crammed with objects of interest, from open fireplaces, enormous mirrors, a miniature penny farthing, and a gigantic wine rack to a sewing machine, tin hats, old dressers and a trombone.

What they all have in common is that they're invariably old.

The restaurant is separated from the rest of the bar, and it's a restaurant that's got nothing to hide. The kitchen is open so patrons can see the chefs at work and meals are served through a hatch.

I went one night after work with my mum and dad who were up on a visit.

We arrived at 5.50pm, just in time to chose from the express lunch menu, available Monday to Saturday from noon to 6pm.

It offers two courses plus a glass of wine (red, white or rose) for just £6.95.

The menu changes every fortnight, which I assume means that they have their regulars who take advantage of this deal and they don't want to bore them.

The menu we looked at featured three starters and five main courses, and there was a veggie option on both.

Dad went for the homemade soup of the day (he chose asparagus, the other option being vegetable), served with crusty bread. Delicious was the verdict on this one, which he said was made of cream, and he knows what he's talking about, being a trained chef.

Mum, meanwhile, opted for the Chinese belly pork served with salad and a sweet chilli sauce. This was generous without being overwhelming and mum said the pork was crispy and tasty.

I went for the Feta cheese, boiled egg and tomato salad with a house dressing. The salad included grated carrot, cucumber, peppers and baby tomatoes. And the sauce was a perfect complement.

A waitress was keeping a watchful eye and when we'd finished, our plates were promptly removed.

So on to the main event. Mum and dad chose the pan fried chicken breast with pineapple on garlic bread topped with melted cheddar cheese and served with salad and chips.

Nothing fancy, but it was tasty and filling. The chips were chips, not those awful French fries, and the chicken was lean and juicy.

I went for the chicken coq-au-vin with chunky vegetables and served with mash potatoes. The spuds were creamy and smooth and the sauce was rich and delicious. And it came as advertised, with chunky vegetables. Again the serving was generous (two chicken breasts) without being overfacing.

Other choices from the main menu included cod in batter served with chips and mushy peas, homemade lasagne with garlic ciabatta bread, and for the veggies, garlic field mushrooms with melted stilton and cheddar cheese served with stir fry vegetables.

And you can always go for the main menu, which is served all day, and offers much more choice. Options on this include a starter of Thai style egg roll stuffed with fresh crab meat with lemongrass chilli, coriander and a tomato salsa dip, £4.50 and a main course of slow cooked lamb hock on creamy leek mash and a rich red wine jus, £9.75.

And if that doesn't appeal there's a tapas bar - at the bar, offering a selection of choices. Then there's the special foodie nights, including every Monday and Tuesday evening, from 6pm to 10pm, a steak night, where you can gorge on two soups, two 10oz sirloins, and two glasses of wine for £24.99.

And for those with a lighter appetite there's a selection of sandwiches and jacket potatoes.

In total, with a bottle of wine, our meal for three came in at a very reasonable £32.85.

The food was good, the company middling and the atmosphere convivial. The waitresses were constantly pleasant but also exceedingly efficient.

 

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