Appearances can often be deceptive, as we discovered on our latest scranning venture. We had headed - on a recommendation from a reader - to an establishment called The Smiths Arms, in Hartlepool. Situated right on the main road running through the quaint village of Greatham, this looks a charming little boozer from the outside, with pretty hanging baskets adorning its whitewashed facade. Inside, however, is a different story altogether. To put it bluntly, the place is in dire need of a makeover. Now, they say never judge a book by its cover, and I have enjoyed some impressive scrans in less than impressive settings, but being in this place actually felt slightly depressing. However, I decided to reserve judgment until I had sampled the fare. The staff provided a much-needed contrast to the dingy surroundings . . . they were cheerful, friendly and efficient. We were shown to a table which had been reserved for us. Unfortunately, it was right next to the door into the kitchen and the Missus began moaning that she could hardly enjoy a relaxing, intimate scran with waiting staff constantly rushing past. Frankly, I wasn't too perturbed but, to keep the peace, I requested a change. The staff were happy to move us and showed us to a table in the lounge and a G&T helped plaster a smile on Mrs Eats' face. The Sunday lunch menu offered one course for £5.75, two for £7.25 and three for £8.75, which sounded very reasonable. For starters, there was pate, soup and prawn cocktail to choose from, and we both plumped for the pate. There were traditional roasts of pork, beef, lamb and chicken - a choice of either a half chicken or breast - as well as mince and dumplings, steak pie or Huntsman's pie which, we were reliably informed, is filled with rabbit and black pudding. She Who Must Be Fed pointed out that there didn't seem to be a vegetarian option, but as a committed carnivore, I wasn't about to weep into my pint. I chose the roast lamb and the Missus settled on chicken breast. Our starters were brought promptly, and consisted of a pot of smooth pate, two pieces of French bread and a side salad. The pate was decidedly average, and had a smokey flavour to it, rather like - as Mrs Eats said - those sausage-shaped tubes of the stuff you can buy in supermarkets. The salad was a little wilted too, and with just two small pieces of bread, there was pate left over. Fortunately, our mains - which again were delivered very speedily - redeemed our first course. We were both served a generous portion of meat, a Yorkshire, mash, roast potato and gravy, along with a large dish of veg including carrots, cabbage and cauliflower to share. My lamb was absolutely delicious, apart from the small fact that it was actually beef. I wasn't about to complain however, as it was tender and tasty. Mrs Eats said her chicken was a little tough, but remarked that the gravy and veg, especially the mash, compensated. I was in for another surprise too, when having worked my way through half my meat, found that the remainder was the lamb I had ordered! Ah well, the best of both worlds I suppose. The portions were just right too, leaving us pleasantly full but hopeful that we might squeeze in one of the sweets we had spotted on a blackboard earlier. Our waitress told us that there was just ice cream, apple and raspberry pie or spotted dick left. We both chose the fruit pie, with ice cream for me and pouring cream for the Missus. It was delivered a few minutes later and I was pretty sure it was apple and blackberry rather than raspberry, but no matter. Again, it tasted OK, but nothing special. When it came to paying our bill, we were in for another little surprise . . . the pub doesn't take debit or credit cards, which sent Mrs Eats in a mild panic. Fortunately, after a frantic rummage round in her Tardis of a handbag, she discovered a long-forgotten chequebook. QUALITY *** VALUE ***S ERVICE **** CHARACTER * CAR PARK yes KIDS yes REAL ALE no WINE BY BOTTLE yes CREDIT CARDS no VEGGIE yes NO SMOKING yes DISABLED LOOS no Pint bitter (Imperial) £2.25Pint Fosters £2.35Wine (175ml) £2.95Orange juice £1.10G&T £3 | 
