MENTION The Ivy to most people and they probably think of a London celebrity hang-out way out of the reach of most of our pockets.
 But The Ivy is also a name fast becoming synonymous with quality at a chain of restaurants here on Tyneside. Last September I wrote a glowing review of The Ivy House at West Jesmond in Newcastle. It is a place I have since eaten in on several occasions and, if it is possible, the food just keeps getting better (hats off to chef Chris!). Imagine my delight then when news reached me that two new Ivys had sprung up – a bistro at the Cradlewell, and an Italian in Ryton. It was to the latter I ventured on Sunday to check it out. This used to be the Silver Giraffe, but with a new look and that burgeoning Ivy rebranding. The decor is friendly with subtle lighting, giving a fresh airy feel to the place. It boasts a classic pizzeria menu, with a few unexpected twists. Starters include fish goujons, avocado vinaigrette, garlic king prawns, mussels, Thai fish cakes and calamari. It was the Ivy meatballs (£4.25), though, which caught my eye (there is also a main course variation too). These are pot-roasted beef meatballs in a roasted tomato and garlic sauce with parmesan shavings. They are pretty chunky and extremely tasty, with just the right amount of sauce to accompany them. They are filling too, with three to a plate. The other two in the party both chose the fungi trifolate (£4.15) – pan-fried mushrooms tossed in a fresh garlic butter. One of them raved about the butter, the other thought it “too buttery”. Suffice to say there was nothing left on either plate, so the mushrooms did go down a treat. You are spoiled for choice when it comes to the main course, with a fine array of pizzas, pasta, rice, grills and ‘classics’ options to choose from. Those classics include mouth-watering dishes like pizza marinara, mixed vegetable tempura, lamb shank and good old fish and chips. Two of us, though, decided to check out the pasta. I’m a big fan of pepperoni, but usually save it for when I’m in pizza mode. On this occasion I decided to try it with pasta (£5.95), and it was a good choice all round. The penne still had that perfect little bite to it, but not as much as the pepperoni itself. There was loads of it, and it was so flavoursome I was still reeking of it hours later (much to the chagrin of those around me). The dish also came packed with olives and a spicy chilli in tomato sauce, which gave it an added zest – just enough to get those tastebuds working overtime, but not enough to make it unbearably hot. Carbonara (£5.95), of course, is a staple of any Italian. Getting it right, though, is not as easy as it may seem. The cream and egg have to be of the right consistency, and too often the meat can be next to tasteless. Not on this occasion. There were no faults whatsoever, and just the right balance of sauce and pasta. Diner number three had the chicken breast (£10.95) with crema sauce (£1.25), served with mixed veg. The sauce was the highlight of his meal – thick, not thin and flowing, with ample mushrooms and onions. Again, another happy chappy, with the vegetables al dente, just to his liking. After a rest we surprised ourselves by deciding that we did have room for desserts and what a treat these turned out to be too, for the most part. Our three choices (all £3.95 each) proved a perfect ending to the meal. My woodland fruits cheesecake was well presented, the mousse light and fluffy. The biscuit base was crisp while the accompanying sauce was on the right side of richness. While there were no complaints as such about the banoffee pie, the dish – a digestive biscuit base with sliced banana and toffee sauce topped with cream and milk chocolate shavings – was “standard not remarkable”, according to this sweet-toothed diner. The profiteroles scuro, however, were to die for. The soft choux pastries were incredibly light, filled with a scrumptious chantilly cream and covered with chocolate cream. They sound so filling, but their lightness makes them so easy to eat and remarkably more-ish. The Ivy Ryton is a welcome addition to the family. It caters for different tastes than its West Jesmond cousin, but the emphasis nonetheless is on good dining in a relaxed atmosphere and with wonderful, friendly staff. I don’t think it will be too long before mentions of The Ivy here in the North East will bring to mind a Tyneside-born restaurant chain rather than an over-priced London venue of which the majority of us will never venture through its doors. Why would we, when we’ve got places like this right on our doorstep? | 
